Surprising Safety Measure

July 10^th, 2012

So life is Swaziland isn’t the safest of existences; there are some days I am surprised I made it through alive.  Between faulty electric everything, non-existent driving regularities, and of course the basic sanitation of the food and water consumed, there is a chance that any or all encounters could be potentially dangerous. 

Today I was standing waiting for transport home and reflecting on my possibly detrimental experiences I had just that day.  Experiences that included one very fast (130km/hr = 80mi/hr), over capacity, khumbie ride without seat belts and with the usual illegal passing while going up-hill around a bend, a free ride through my community courtesy of the local ambulance while it was en route bringing a patient to the hospital (who knows what I picked up in there), and just maneuvering in the bus rank (bus depot) where I think I almost got hit like three times.  So as I stepped out from under the electrical wires at my stesh (bus stop), just in case they fall (with good reason – I’ve seen it happen), I watch as a lorry approaches overflowing with wood poles.  The crew of five who I’m sure spent hours gathering the poles where insecurely seated and standing atop the pile in the back of the truck.  I’m very desensitized to the lack safety precautions here but I couldn’t help but think “man that’s not really safe.”  The lorry slowed and turned down the dirt road.  As I watched it turn expecting a pole or a person to perhaps roll off I see that amongst the poles sticking out the back end there is a red baseball camp tied to one of them.  I just giggled.  Of all the safety precautions to take it was the “large load” red flag that made the cut.  Someone paid attention during Driver’s ed.!!!  Now if only they had been on time, they could have learned about these great things called seatbelts!

Fourth of July

July 4^th, 2012

Best Fourth of July In Swaziland Ever!!!

We had a real BBQ at our Country Director’s house.  There was great food: hamburgers, hot dogs, potato salad, beans, coleslaw, and deserts galore.  It was awesome and felt so American!  All the PCVs were there, which now include Group 7 extenders, Group 8, Group 9, and the fresh off the boat Group 10.  They have been here now for 6 days and look so clean!  It was fun to meet them, but a bit overwhelming.  When you’ve had the same 40 friends for a year and then you get 40 new ones in a single moment it was too much.  Makes you realize just how far from being ‘American’ I have come.  The speed of their conversations was enough to make me need a nap.

Anyways we spent the afternoon chatting, playing volleyball, and eating.  Then group 10 went back to their training site and the rest of us went to Bombasos for the night.  We had another meal of hot dogs and s’mores cooked over a barrel bucket fire, had a dance party on the patio, and tried to light off fireworks we found at the Chinese store.  They didn’t really work but the sparklers did and we lit up the night while singing songs of Americana.  Good food, good friends, and a place where we could celebrate the greatness that is America and the freedoms that I now truly appreciate.

The fourth of July has also sparked some really great conversations with people in my community.  Most people don’t know that America gained independence from England just as Swaziland did.  Every time I have this conversation I can see the gears start turning.  This little fact that connects America and Swaziland just may be the inspiration or the hope a Swazi needs to see that Swaziland has the ability to become better then it is.  America was once a new country independent from England and look where we have come, and the good news is it won’t take Swaziland 200+ years to improve their situation.

Christmas In June

June 23^rd, 2012

In honor of winter, Jesus’ half birthday, and of course just a reason to come together and eat food, Swaziland PCVs converged to celebrate Christmas in June. 

We booked out our home away from home, Bambasoes Backpackers in Mbabane, and made a gigantic Christmas meal for 60 using one oven and two half functional stovetops.  Well I didn’t personally make any of the food because the electricity to the kitchen had been blown out by the time I arrived.  Thankfully my fellow volunteers had been hard at work all day so my uncooked mashed potatoes weren’t a huge loss.

I arrived with just enough time to change into my holiday outfit, complete with elf hat (Thanks Kathy Bosse), for the white elephant gift exchange.  Since we are all poor, but really creative, we decided anyone could either bring a gift of something in their hut they didn’t want, something that was homemade, or spend no more then E20 on a gift (that is about $2.50).  We played the number game where you get a number and go in numeric order to pick a wrapped gift out of the pile; any player down the line can then steal a gift rather then pick from the pile.  Each gift can only be stolen twice however, and if your gift is stolen you get to pick another out.  I put in a homemade painting of an elephant (thanks to the art supplies Mariah sent me), and at first got the ever so popular “I Love Jesus” ball cap that is very fashionable here in Swaziland.  Unfortunately that gift was quickly stolen as it instantly ups your cool factor in the Swazi community.  I ended up with a magic set and had a lot of fun participating.  People got really creative with gifts.  We had a hand-knitted hat, a homemade candle, vouchers for airtime (cell phone minutes), a large pumpkin, even a box of not so fresh take-away food, which I think was never claimed lol.

The feast we had was amazing, with lots of traditional holiday dishes from home.  Mmmm comfort food!  Plus gluten free chocolate cake for dessert and a spiked holiday punch that made everyone’s cheeks glow rosy red.  Picnic tables were pulled out onto the patio and Christmas lights, garland, stockings, mistletoe, and fake snow (contributed by yours truly) gave the place lots of Christmas cheer.  Holiday music serenaded the festivities and it oddly felt just like Christmas.  Only downside was waking up the next morning and realizing that it’s actually June and there is no upcoming New Years Eve Party to keep your spirits high.  But… there is Fourth of July.  God Bless America for having so many reasons to celebrate life!  Word in the Kingdom is this year we are getting hot dogs!!!!

Its The Small Things

June 22^nd, 2012

I finally got to leave my community today!!!  It’s been 23 days and I am fairly certain my patience couldn’t have handled another day.  I love my community, but as all PCVs know, when in your community you’re on the job 100% of the time and it’s exhausting and really tests your patience.

Unfortunately it is Friday of month end, meaning its payday for every single person in Swaziland.  Everyone is trying to get to town to withdraw money from the banks.  After waiting 1.5 hours for transport that wasn’t standing room only, rejecting two marriage proposals, and bracing extreme winds that leave you choking on dust, I had had it.  I just wanted to sit in peace with my ipod and ignore Swaziland for a while.  I finally got on a bus and the ride was great until we stopped at a school and picked up the entire student body of the primary and high school.  I had a seat open in my row so I moved in and thee smallest primary school girl ended up sitting next to me.  I saw that she was trying to greet me so I pulled out a headphone and greeted her back.  She then grabbed my headphone and put it in her ear.  This normally would have caused me to blow a gasket but for some reason I just went with it and let her listen.  Thankfully I was listening to Justin Beiber (shame I know) so at least it was something appropriate.  The next song to come on was Shakira’s Waka Waka.  For those none World Cup Soccer fans, this was one of the theme songs for the World Cup held in South Africa in 2010.  Its really popular here and this little girl started dancing in her seat.  She was the envy of every other student around us because she got to listen to the white person’s music player.  I couldn’t do anything but smile and join her.  Any resentment I had at that moment for Swaziland was gone.  Oh the power of music, my attitude and outlook on the weekend was much sunnier from then on.

Eat Fresh!

June 21^st, 2012

                  

No, Swaziland has not opened a Subway Fast Food Restaurant recently. It might take away from the only fast food option here, KFC, and we can’t have that.

All jokes aside, I am really eating fresh these days.  My garden has gotten into full bloom and I’m loving the benefits.  I eat salads every other day with lettuce fresh picked.  I make spinach omelets for breakfast right out of the garden, and use green onion in everything.  My carrots are still growing strong, and my tomatoes and pepper seedlings have sprouted so soon I will be able to eat an entire meal straight from the garden!  I have basil growing to help keep the bugs away and provide good smells (just like Jimmy Johns, haha I’m killing it with the sub shop references – can you tell its day 21 of my 23 days locked at site).  I’m also growing parsley and garlic chives in milk boxes.  I’m poor but resourceful.  Milk comes in boxes here and once finished they make great trays for starting seedlings and growing herbs.  They also make great wallets, but that’s another story in recycling.  The plan is to transplant the herbs into used car tires once they outgrow their milk boxes.



Carrots and Green Onion!



Lettuce and spinach!

Guess What My Community Is Getting?

June 20^th, 2012

A Gas Station!!!

There is currently not a single place nearby to get gas, or petro, as its called here.  Most vehicle owners either drive 20 minutes to Siteki, or 30 minutes to Manzini to fill up.  Some business owners from Manzini have just gotten approved (aka paid the price to local government) to build a filling station along the tar road that runs through my community.  This is the only road that connects to Mozambique so it gets lots of traffic, why they don’t have any gas stations along this route, only God knows.  We do have a filling station in the community, but its not functioning and the Convenience store just moved across the street because it was getting robbed (I know the logic in that is faulty, but logic and problem solving don’t have to exist together here – it’s a blissful world).

Anyways, since the right to build had been bought, in celebration the business owners got to host a braai (BBQ) for the local government and anyone from the community who wanted to attend.  Word travels fast so it turned out to be a very large portion of the community (side note below).  The expressions “invite only” or “closed party” do not exist in this culture.  Somehow I found myself involved in this braai and spent the afternoon serving this celebratory meal.  It was a great day for the Malindza community, they got some money, they found out they were getting a modern facility that would employ their people, bring traffic into the community, and improve their economy, and they got a free meal that included pork, chicken, and wurst.  I can’t say a thing because I was fed in return for my help, however I am a little peeved I was not invited to the after party.  As soon as the food was gone, everyone high tailed it out of there.  I found out later someone across town was approved to build a new homestead and another celebratory meal was happening.  I really have got to find my place in the chain of gossip around here, I am missing out a lot of free meals. 

Side note: I think I know why I’m not in the know.  I don’t have a Fixed Phone.  This is basically a wireless house phone, however since it requires no connection cord it gets used as if it were a cell phone.  Imagine the old house phones that have the spiral cord attaching the hand set to the receiver.  Well that is what these phones are and people carry them around with them.  I have seen them in cars on passenger seats, shoved in large handbags thrown over a shoulder, as well as simply just being carried under the arm around town.  When I ask why people carry them around I get looked at like I’m the one who doesn’t get it and the response is always “I don’t want to miss a call.”  I refrain from bringing up the answering machine because I already know how well voicemail for cell phones was accepted.  Don’t even think about leaving a voicemail, it’s just a waste of airtime (aka phone minutes).  Apparently I got to get with the times, ditch my cell phone and get me one of these bulky, inconvenient, communication devices. 

New Talent, New Furniture, and New Discoveries!

June 16^th, 2012

I have had a week of a lot of new and exciting things.  It doesn’t take much to excite me here as my days are fairly similar, my routines are set, and life is slow paced.  However, I have acquired many new things that will make life that much more enjoyable.

Group 8 PCVs (the group a year a head of me) are getting ready to COS (close of service).  In doing so they are getting rid of the surprisingly large about a stuff a hut can acquire, of which I am reaping the benefits.  I have just gained two wall hangers with hooks that I have hung kitchen gadgets on to free up space in my “pantry/cupboard” (aka plastic shelving unit) and a, not as useful but way more fun, guitar!!  I have never played the guitar before, but it came with a large beginners guidebook so I am teaching myself.  It is so nice to be able to make music again.  That was something I totally underestimated that I would miss from home.

This week I also finally got a desk and chair for inside my hut.  I had it made at the vocational carpentry school in Mpaka that has reopened recently.  Addy’s Babe owns a vehicle so I got him to pick it up and deliver it to my hut for cheap.  It’s so nice to have and I can’t believe I waited so long to get it.  The quality is really nice, all wood, very sturdy, and now I have another space to work in aside from my bed.

Now that it is “winter” here and the heat isn’t threatening to kill me, I have started to explore my community a bit more.  The weather is perfect enough for afternoon walks and I have discovered many new paths, one of which is going to save me a lot of time.  Why I was never told this before I don’t know, but I have discovered a path that will cut my walking time to the High School in half and allows me to not walk along the main tar road.  It’s a nice little path tucked back in between homesteads.  I have been annoyed with having to work at the school lately specifically because of the walk, and this new path fixes everything!

Like I said it doesn’t take much to make me excited these days.  The desk and chair cost me a pretty penny so my June allowance is limited and I’m locking myself away at site for 23 days. until all the PCVs are coming together to celebrate Christmas in June.  I’m on day 16 and going a bit crazy, hence why my excitement for the above three things is blog worthy.  I’d love to come with really exciting tales from the field, but lets be honest, staying at site is slightly uneventful.

Oh, oh, oh wait I do have exciting news.  This just in, Scarface, the serial rapist/kidnapper that has been on the loose since October of last year, has been found and shot dead.  Turns out he was living in a homemade fort located in the bush of my community.  Nice eh?  The Mpaka police found him, shot him in the leg, and he conveniently died by the time they got him to the hospital.  One less thing in the bush that I have to worry about! 

One Year Down, 13 Months To Go!

June 10^th, 2012

I have now been in Swaziland for exactly one year.

It’s hard to believe a year ago this morning I was waking up in a very different world.  I was meeting Swaziland for the first time, seeing Sub-Saharan Africa for the first time, and feeling totally out of my element for the first time.  Shocked, numb, only able to process moment by moment, not being able to see the whole picture, relying only on the faint recollection of really wanting to do this tour of service.  Wondering if two years time would every pass by.  That’s how I felt a year ago.

I can very happily say that is not how I am feeling right now.  This year has flown by faster then I could have ever imagined last June.  The transition to this new life in Swaziland was sure not easy and not without some very testing experiences.  Learning to live without running water, erratic electricity, unreliable transport, draconian commitment to religion, and a repressive gender inequality are just a few thing I learned to deal with over the past year.  In doing so I have also picked up some very handy life skills and learned a lot about myself and what I want and need out of life to be happy.

I have come to love Swaziland in many ways.  I love the drastic change in landscape as you travel from west to east, providing excellent scenery for my reflective bus rides to and from town.  I love the sunrises and sunsets, especially in winter – It really looks like the beginning scene in the Lion King.  I love that just a 10 minute drive away from my house live lions, elephants, giraffes, rhino, zebra, warthogs, water buffalo, and antelope.  While I don’t particularly love the small change of seasons here, I do appreciate that with each change of season comes new and exciting food at the market.  Things just taste better when you can only get them at certain times of year.  It gives you something to look forward to and something to moan about when its gone – something other then the fact that its 50°F out and you still have no other choice but to bucket bathe.  I have learned to appreciate the beauty, fun, and fulfillment in growing your own food and the adventure of cooking and eating new foods custom to this part of the world.  And most of all I love the relationships I have made.

I have made a whole community of acquaintances, a circle of friends, and a handful of people I have really special bonds with that I am thankful I have the next year to spend in the company of.  Thanks to these people, particularly the last few, I have been able to “be free”* here in Swaziland.  They have helped me make a home that feels comfortable and to develop a life here that I enjoy living. 

Thinking back to day one, I still can’t believe it’s been a year.  Feels like just last month I was feeling overwhelmed and unconfident in why I was doing this; asking myself “is it worth it?”  It is!  The struggles, the discoveries, the new experiences, they are everything I wanted and more from this adventure.  I get why Peace Corps Service is two years, it takes a year to just learn how to live.  As much as I still get twinges of homesickness and find jealousy creep in when I talk to volunteers who are completing service and returning home, I would be sad if I had to leave now.  I’ve worked so hard and come so far to get here.  I am excited that that first year is out of the way and I can just enjoy the next year.  Bring it on Year Two!

 * My Make uses this phrase to express anyone who is comfortable in his or her living situation and can do as they please, without fear.

RIP Beau :(

June 2^nd, 2012

I am saddened that I have to tell you all that my beautiful little kitten passed away today.  He was only mine for just over a month but losing him is the hardest thing I have faced here in Swaziland.  In a place where you’re always reminded that you’re alone no matter how integrated you become, having a pet was the most comforting thing.  He was something to come home to, to snuggle with on these progressively colder winter nights, and he listened to all my venting and still loved me despite it.

I should have listened to my family when they worried about how the dogs and the cats would get along.  Last night the dogs, blinded by hunger after not being fed all day, attacked Beau.  I heard the fight but couldn’t see what was happening because it was dark out.  I couldn’t go near the dogs because when they get aggressive they could easily turn on me.  My Bobhuti also heard the commotion and came and chased them off and that’s when I found Beau lying in the dirt.  His back had been broken and they had punctured his neck.  He was still alive when I got to him but died within minutes.  I am glad he didn’t suffer long but feel awful that all I could do was stand and listen to it happen.  I keep thinking if I just done something different he would still be here.  I am also sad that Bear has lost his brother and his mentor.  Beau has helped Bear so much in the last three weeks, I’m fearful of how Bear will progress, without Beau’s guidance.  

My host dad took Beau so he could be buried in the morning.  He and my host mom feel really bad about it.  They said I can get another cat, but I’m not ready for that yet.  I can at least find comfort in Bear.  We need each other now, more then ever.

BUSHFIRE!!!

May 25^th-27^th, 2012

Bushfire: Swaziland’s International Festival of the Arts. 

This year’s theme was “Bring Your Fire” and it was for sure brought over three days of music, dancing, spoken word, giant puppetry, food and crafts.  It all takes place in a giant field behind one of Swaziland’s best entertainment facilities, House On Fire.  Sponsored by Swaziland’s one cell phone provider MTN, Bushfire is an awesome collection of creativity from all over Southern Africa.  Acts and vendors from Swaziland, South Africa, and Mozambique brought people together from all over Africa, Europe, America, Asia and even Australia in the name of giving back.  All proceeds go towards an organization that helps students in Swaziland gain sponsors to get a better education.  There were also vendors displaying the best of Swaziland’s handicraft business and an entire array of Southern African cuisine!!  Acts includes Swaziland’s own Country band, reggae artists, chart toping South African pop artists, dance troupes, rapper, and my favorite act Jeremy Loops – he does looping, a form of music where each instrument gets recorded separate and looped together – soooo cool.  He performed a set on Saturday, but then on Sunday did an impromptu set where anyone could come and record and instrument and then they created songs right there.  It was really fun and creative.  Everything about the festival was awesome and I can’t wait for next year!  

I braced the bitter winter nights to camp at a local backpackers near the festival grounds for the weekend.  Aside from 35F cold at night camping here was so cool.  This campsite provides the best scenic view in Swaziland and resides on a game park.  I woke up to breathtaking mountains bathed in morning sun, and had warthogs and springbok sniffing out my tent.  And for the amount of sleep I actually got, the cold really wasn’t too awful.  The festival went into the wee hours of the morning with Swazi DJs rocking the dance floor (or field for that matter).  Having to jump back into “work” Monday was hard; I think I could sleep for a whole week.



The Venue



Jeremy Loops



Giant Mozambiquan Puppets